1287423
June 2, 2023
Arts & Crafts projects are always so much fun.
1285397
May 23, 2023
I'm going to give a quick rundown on burying a firearm.
The first thing you need will be the measurements of the firearm.
With those, you can get the length and diameter of the materials.
You will need:
P... View MoreI'm going to give a quick rundown on burying a firearm.
The first thing you need will be the measurements of the firearm.
With those, you can get the length and diameter of the materials.
You will need:
PVC Pipe.
End caps.
Rice.
Moisture absorbers.
Grease/Vaseline/Cosmoline.
Sealant.
STRONG weatherproof ashesive.
You will then need the correct length and diameter of PVC pipe.
(I've found that a 6" inner diameter works well for most pump shotguns)
1 Put the adheive on the endcap's inner diameter, and attach the bottom end cap on the pipe and seal its outer diameter wear it meets the pipe.
2 While that is drying and curing, go ahead and use the grease or whatever water repellent you are using to coat the firearm and its inside parts.
3 Allow the adhesive to cure overnight.
4 Put the weapon in the pipe, and put the moisture packets inside.
5 Pour in the rice, it should be approximately 1/3 full.
6 Seal the top of the cap the same way the bottom was sealed and allow this to cure overnight.
7 Bury it in a place that you will remember but which isn't obvious.
Avoid trees, as the roots can become a problem.
Avoid water sources, too.
Water is the primary thing we are trying to hold out.
I want to note that YES there are dogs that can sniff these out and there isn't much you can do about them.
It may be possible to confuse them by burying hundreds of piles of spent bullet casings.
Certainly that'll irritate metal detector users.
1281128
April 9, 2023
A LOT of dopes want to do room clearing in a boog.
If you spend all day kicking in doors it will not be very long before you kick in the wrong door and have your face blown off for your troubles.
If th... View MoreA LOT of dopes want to do room clearing in a boog.
If you spend all day kicking in doors it will not be very long before you kick in the wrong door and have your face blown off for your troubles.
If there is a boog on and a building is a problem and I don't need anything inside of it, I'm throwing a molotov.
CQB is for when there is no better option.
1272066
March 12, 2023
thought that I might discuss camouflages.
I will not be discussing ancient types or going into the distant past beyond the late 19th century. Don't flood my comments with discussions of Celtic, Germani... View Morethought that I might discuss camouflages.
I will not be discussing ancient types or going into the distant past beyond the late 19th century. Don't flood my comments with discussions of Celtic, Germanic, Frankish, or Injun methods.
I already fucking know.
Camos come in a multitude of types and there are several ways in which they work, but the idea is to trick the brain.
The first types were solid color camos, and countries arrived at these conclusions at different times.
The British got their lesson when soldiers of the East India Trade Company began dying their white uniforms using coffee grounds. This by the way, was how khaki was created. They did this in response to Hindi rebels and bandits who could easily spot the bright uniform, even through dense brush.
The Americans learned on San Juan Hill, in the Spanish American War. Their True Blue uniform stood out very well to Spanish troops armed with Mauser rifles. They would soon go to an olive drab brown-green color.
The French, having forgotten about their Frankish ancestors, were reminded in The Great War. In an age of long range rifles, a guy mounted on a horse, in a blue coat with brilliant crimson trousers and a shining, polished silver helmet is the easiest shot on the battlefield. They would eventually go to a Field Blue color that was nearly grey.
The Germans were already using Field Grey, not sure where they got the lesson; maybe they figured it out watching what was happening to everyone else.
Single color camos really aren't that good. They are better than bright colors obviously, but the Human eye is going to detect a Human silhouette very quickly, especially once that person moves.
During World War II, Italy, Germany, and the U.S experimented with camo patterns. For Italy it was Telo Mimetico (the first camo to be mass produced), Germany used Splittermuster, and America used Frog Skin/spot. These were all pretty limited in use, single color was cheaper, they already had it in surplus, but they were learning. Most armies kept O.D green well into the 1970's, tho. Even during Vietnam, the pics you see of men in Tiger Stripe camo are from men who bought their own locally. O.D was the standard issue.
These patterns and the ones that would be adopted between the 1970's-1990's were better than single color, because they helped break up the silhouette. This process is called "Disruption" since it disrupts the normal way the eye sees a Human target. Now, the Human eye wasn't seeing a man shaped mass of green or tan, but it thought it was seeing some leaves moving in the breeze. Varying shades of natural tones really helped to break that image up. Of the patterns in this period, Flecktarn was probably the best, and it does a good job, even by todays standard. The way the colors are used creates an artificial illusion of "depth" when viewed from a distance. Other patterns also do this such as the US M81 Woodland pattern British DPM or the French Lizard pattern.
Then technology came and digital camo was born.
If you look into the distance you can often see vapor currents streaming upward, especially when it's hot.
Digital camo kind of replicates that. It must be understood that the block patterns on digital camo are a careful mathematical algorithm. One can not just paint blocks on cloth and create a successful pattern.
This type started in Canada with CadPat, the U.S Marines adopted a similar, but improved pattern called MarPat, then the U.S Army fucked it up with UCP.
Ideally the pattern gives improved performance when hiding from electronic surveillance and when seen through night vision devices.
The problem with UCP was that it was an attempt to make one pattern for all environments and it ended up with one pattern for no environments. They didn't even properly test it, and this resulted in congressional actions. The US Army would eventually go to MultiCam.
MultiCam was designed by an artist. He used colors from multiple environments, that are VERY carefully blended. It also fools the eye, because the eye will be drawn to whichever color is most prominent in its environment (the opposite of what one would think) so it makes generous uses of browns and greens. MultiCam has proven to be VERY effective and is basically what UCP wanted to be.
Since then, other civilian patterns have been developed. These are mostly used by paintballers and airsofters who are way too into their sport.
Some of the good ones include A-TACS, Krytek L.E.A.F, Brookwood,and VTC Badlands.
To get the most out of your camo you need to consider the darkness or lightness of the color. If you are using a darker colored camo stay close to the ground in darkly colored underbrush, soil, or in shadows near trees. A lighter colored camo will be better in areas of light, or less dark vegetation; though you should not ignore a good spot to hide if you see one.
1262573
February 13, 2023
1285767
May 25, 2023
I'm not saying that anyone should start mixing 94% AN with 6% diesel fuel and making a slurry, put in random plastic container, tape a chunk of tannerite on it and try shooting at it from a distance.
I... View MoreI'm not saying that anyone should start mixing 94% AN with 6% diesel fuel and making a slurry, put in random plastic container, tape a chunk of tannerite on it and try shooting at it from a distance.
I'm just saying it sounds like it'd be a fun way to remove treestumps on a farm.
1281259
April 10, 2023
There are a huge variety of calibers available but I'll be focused on three. .308 Winchester/ 7.62x51 NATO, .223 Remington/ 5.56x45 NATO and 7.62x39 Soviet.
.308 Win or 7.62x51 NATO: This is a hard hit... View MoreThere are a huge variety of calibers available but I'll be focused on three. .308 Winchester/ 7.62x51 NATO, .223 Remington/ 5.56x45 NATO and 7.62x39 Soviet.
.308 Win or 7.62x51 NATO: This is a hard hitting cartridge that was developed back in the 1950's. The idea was some romantic notion an Army officer had of single shots across battlefields by marksmen.
The reality of modern warfare must not have hit him, just yet. It was difficult to control in full auto fire, because of its stronger recoil and, though a good round, it was not the one for the Cold War.
For Boogaloo/SHTF/RaHoWa purposes, however, it works very well.
The round is powerful, commonly available, with a decent range and accuracy, and it easily cuts through brush in dense forests, while thanks to its range and accuracy it can rule streets and pastures as well.
The only disadvantage comes down to weight. It is a heavier bullet and most rifles that use it are heavier, too. The lightest .308 rifle (and most accurate) will be the AR-10, which can easily outshoot a G3 or FAL.
Common semi-auto rifles in this chambering include the C308/HK91/Cetme, the SCAR, the AR-10, and the FN FAL. Of these, I would probably choose the AR-10, though the others listed are solid choices.
.223 Rem or 5.56x45 NATO: This is a round that punches well above its weight class, to say the least. It was the round which replaced the 7.62 NATO as the standard NATO cartridge and has served this role since the early 1960's, after the M-14 was replaced by the M-16A1.
There are a number of considerations with this, including barrel length, twist rate and bullet weight. An IDEAL scenario is a 20 inch barrel, with a 1-12 twist rate and a 55 grain bullet.
This sees the best result for bullet velocity and spin, which are where this round derives its outsized capacity for injury.
If you are using a faster twist rate, such as a 1-7 (which I use) or a 1-8 or 1-9, you should consider a heavier bullet. A 55 grain will be fine in any of these, but a more stable and hard hitting shot can be derived from a 70 grain bullet. A shorter barrel sees a reduced effectiveness, as this bullet suffers a drop in velocity rather quickly. If one is expecting only close range combat, a 16 inch barrel is probably the best compromise, otherwise, I find that the 20 inch is more accurate and has far better velocity. The best places for these are in open fields, and urban zones. Thick foliage can cause bullet deflection and will throw shots off center, but that probably won't result in a complete miss at close range. It is very commonly available, extremely accurate, light weight with low recoil, and deadly. The benefits generally outweigh the costs.
The most common rifle in this caliber is the most common in the USA: The AR-15. The C93/HK-93, the Ruger Mini 14, and the AUG are some other good choices in this caliber.
7.62x39 Soviet: This was developed in the mid to late days of World War II. It's a pretty nice compromise between the last two options and is common enough to be easily sourced. Unlike 5.56, it does not suffer too badly from velocity loss from a shorter barrel.
It is a fairly hard hitting round, being a .30 caliber bullet, is not deflected as easily going through vegetation and retains lethal energy at a decent range, though not as far as the .308.
Because of the rifles which use this, I would consider this a solid choice for places with thick brush. One would think that this would be great in the city, too and one would be right (to a point) but the guy who wins is the first one to make a lethal shot and the AR-15 is amazingly accurate.
Also, recent political and military activity has resulted in further sanctions against Russia including an ammunition embargo.
As a result, the supply of cheap, steel-case ammo is sure to dry up in coming years.
Most variants of the AKM accept this round as do all SKS rifles, the Ruger Mini 30, and the Vz58.
1276080
March 24, 2023
I'M READY FOR THE BOOOOOG!
Yeah?
What's your unit structure like?
You HAVE established a chain-of-command, right?
He doesn't have to be a great general but he does have some idea of what he ought to be do... View MoreI'M READY FOR THE BOOOOOG!
Yeah?
What's your unit structure like?
You HAVE established a chain-of-command, right?
He doesn't have to be a great general but he does have some idea of what he ought to be doing, yes?
How about communications?
You have a good network set up and someone specialized to overseeing it?
Hey, speaking of networks, what about logistics?
You can feed, clothe and supply everyone, and everyone has food clothes and supplies, right?
Guys can burn through that ammo pretty fast, so surely you've thought of this.
Who's in charge of that?
How many guys does he have under him helping with it?
You ever see a battlefield injury?
I have; they're pretty gnarly, in case you wanted to know.
Sometimes you can see down to the bone, and everything in between.
So, of course, you have made sure that all your guys are competent at field treatment.
What about AFTER field treatment?
You have a medical network established?
You see, even if the U.S leadership is made of yes-men and political favorites, they still have leadership.
Crappy leaders actually ARE better than a complete lack of them and the chain-of-command structure extends from the President down all the way to the lowest private.
Someone is ALWAYS senior and thus there is always some accountability and someone in control.
America probably has the best logistics of any country on Holy Terra and this is not an idle boast.
I hate the government, but they know very well how to equip their forces and how to move and supply them.
I've been the point man in a stack and can tell you from personal experience that I am very blessed to have survived it.
I don't know why everyone seems to want that role, except the guys who've had it.
A bit like being the King, I suppose.
Everyone wants to be in the direct fight, though and nobody can swallow their pride just long enough to see a MUCH larger picture which would emerge if one did.
The Combat Arms element of militaries is only a very small part of a much bigger machine; every one of those troops is supported by medics, surgeons, cooks, supply staff, office staff, intelligence, communications and signals, drivers, and probably dozens if not hundreds of more roles that I didn't mention and every single one of those is overseen by men and women who may have varying degrees of competence but they sure as heck have an answer of SOME sort when an issue emerges.
Hey, what about AFTER you finish tearing apart our government.
You have a plan for rebuilding sabatoged infrastructure?
You have a government in place, ready to step into the role?
Who's in charge of that?
You have a government system designed already, so we don't become a vassal state to one of the great powers?
If you don't, then all of that fighting I'd so the survivors can be the bitch of Russia, China or the EU, all of which are bad options.
Get your shit in order.
1262574
February 13, 2023
Not sure how I feel about relying on a method nicknamed "the ranger grave," but here you go.
1262513
February 13, 2023
Grenade/Mortar Drone Resistant Foxhole.
Left is more expedient and is most effective against VOG grenades, but more vulnerable to F-1/RGD time-fuse grenades.
Right is effective against both, but mor... View MoreGrenade/Mortar Drone Resistant Foxhole.
Left is more expedient and is most effective against VOG grenades, but more vulnerable to F-1/RGD time-fuse grenades.
Right is effective against both, but more time-consuming.
Can be improved with an angled sheet over the entrance to bounce away dropped frag grenades
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